After a month in the hot flat deserts of Uzbekistan, crossing the border into the Panjikent region of Tajikistan felt magical. Ahead of us lay a perfect asphalt road winding up a mountain valley with the snow-capped peaks of the Fann Mountains in the distance. This was the place that Continue Reading
Uzbekistan
We left Karakalpakstan on the road from Nukus to Khiva, entering into the non-autonomous regions of Uzbekistan. The road paralleled the Amu Darya river, surrounded by agriculture on both sides and desert beyond the river basin. The river once led to the Aral Sea, but has since been redirected for Continue Reading
Karakalpakstan, the forgotten ‘stan
In the western part of Uzbekistan, there is pretty much nothing. For a very very long flat distance. This place is called Karakalpakstan. Karakalpakstan was once a flourishing region with a thriving agriculture and fishing industry supported by the mighty Amu Darya River and the Aral Sea. Thanks to the Continue Reading
Kazakhstan
Western Kazakhstan has desert, camels, awesome dairy products, some more desert, oil, more desert, and the city of Aktau. First stop: the supermarket. I was excited to see Tan, Central Asia’s salty sour carbonated milk drink that is ever so refreshing on a hot summer day. After downing a bottle, Continue Reading
Azerbaijan, land of contrasts
Azerbaijan is a strange country. The center of the capital city, Baku, is like any oil-rich capital city: clean, modern, expensive, offering all of the comforts of the developed world. Cranes dot the skyline as shiny new skyscrapers are constantly being built, and a brand new boulevard along the waterfront Continue Reading
The Great Bike Ride
A month ago, I went to a used bike market in Tbilisi and left with a pretty decent looking $180 bicycle. A couple days later I boarded a train to Baku with my new bike and all of my most important belongings. Baku would be the starting point for a Continue Reading
Paying it forward
There comes a point in most travelers’ lives where they feel the need to give back to the world. As travelers, we receive so much help from other people – home cooked meals, couches to sleep on, showers and washing machines, free rides in cars – with no expectation of Continue Reading