This article is about my personal journey and how being so far away and disconnected from the rest of my life put me in the place to grow internally. It was written while crossing the North Atlantic from Greenland to Spain, after a month of sailing along the coast of Continue Reading
Thirst for Adventure
This article is about my internal struggle to find balance between a baseline need for stability, an addiction to the thrill of adventure, and the feeling that nothing is ever quite enough. It was written while sailing away from Greenland after a month-long adventure that pushed the bounds of my Continue Reading
Icebergs
A series of haikus about icebergs. Icebergs are really not ice. Snow compressed over millions of years. Snow falls, and more snow.Weight of snow pushes down on the snow underneath. Snowflakes break down and compress together into hard substance like ice. More snow falls, pushes ice downhill like a river. Continue Reading
Polar Bear
That white rock appears to be moving. That’s a fluffy rock. Oh shit. That rock has legs. And eyes. And a very long neck. The polar bear looks up as I emerge from around the cliff. We share eye contact for an endless moment. It lowers its gaze and continues Continue Reading
Greenland: The Last Frontier
Scoresby Sound, Greenland. It’s a balmy July day. I mean that somewhat sarcastically—we are in the Arctic—but it feels downright tropical compared to the previous 2 days of gale-force winds and spiteful waves since we set off from Iceland’s distant Westfjords region on a 1-month expedition to Greenland’s rugged east Continue Reading
Surviving the Pamir Highway
This article is the fifth and final installation in the Pamir Highway series. If you haven’t read the others, follow this link. Despite the howling wind and frigid temperatures, Detti and I slept like logs, having just reached the highest elevation that either of us had ever been to—with fully Continue Reading
Pushing up the Pamir Highway
Day 7. With a drawn-out yawn and an extensive stretch, my eyelids slowly peeled apart to reveal the bowed wooden skeleton and intricately embroidered canvas surface of a yurt. Plopped in the front yard of Pamir Hotel, the five cots lining the yurt’s circular floor provided a comfortable nighttime refuge Continue Reading
Cycling the Pamir Highway
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(Hitch)Hiking the Pamir Highway
Khorog – the Pamir region’s biggest “city” – deserved a few days. Not only were there a bunch of other cyclists to hang out with at the Pamir Lodge hostel, but it was the first time in months that we were in a place with both a) cool enough daytime Continue Reading
Hitchbiking the Pamir Highway: Dushanbe to Khorog
I cycled several kilometers out of Dushanbe and held out my thumb. Almost immediately, a Hyundai Porter—something halfway between a pickup truck and a flatbed, very common in Central Asia—pulled over, tossed my bike in the bed, and we set off. For the next hour and a half, the driver Continue Reading